Baselworld 2014 – Blancpain: The latest Bathyscaphe from the FF family welcomes ...

Apr 30, 2014,04:51 AM
 

Baselworld 2014 – Blancpain: The latest Bathyscaphe from the Fifty Fathoms family welcomes a brand new chronograph movement






A new chronograph movement as a novelty causes a lot of attention, at least most of the time. Quite a few of even of the top-tier brands that may come to your mind don´t have their own or offer it only in their top top-tier range – if we don´t talk about modules. Blancpain has a very famous one since 1987, the caliber 1185, which is also used by brands like AP, VC, Harry Winston to mention only a few. For today’s standards it is on the small side with a diameter of only 25.6mm, but still offers one of the best solutions available for many.

Now Blancpain introduces on top, in a very silent/understated way, the caliber F385 and they do it (not exclusively, but more on this at a later time) inside a new version of the Bathyscaphe, which is some kind of “entry level” for the Fifty Fathoms collection and Blancpain in general. Some questions come to my mind …

 

Before we talk about the “real novelty – the movement” I would like to have a look at the new watch, which is available in two versions – steel and black ceramic.

 

FF Bathyscaphe - Born in the late 1950s from a desire to offer a diver’s watch in a size suited to daily wear. The Bathyscaphe was reinterpreted by Blancpain in 2013 – time & date only. This year, the timepiece that is equally at home under water and in chic urban settings takes on board a new self-winding F385 movement featuring a flyback chronograph function. The simple three hands and date novelty (Ref. 5000) from last year was introduced in two versions as well – steel and ceramised titanium. The latter didn´t really see the market and only a few (if at all) have been sold, because it turned out to be almost impossible to produce in regular production. I know this is hard to believe from a brand like Blancpain and especially if we consider the resources from the Swatch Group behind, but at the end they also cook with water only. The new chronograph with a diameter of 43mm is (as already mentioned) available in a black version as well, but this time it is black ceramic – just to be safe smile

 

Aside the key technical characteristics of the Fifty Fathoms collection (in general), the aesthetic of the Bathyscaphe picks up the signature codes of the original model. The domed black dial is free of any numerals, punctuated only by lines and dots serving as hour-markers, while the date appears in a window at 4 o’clock. The sunburst finish on the dial and the snailed chronograph counters add a sense of depth to the overall effect. The rectangular hands are reminiscent of those featured on the 1950s Bathyscaphe models. The ceramic unidirectional rotating bezel bears hour-markers filled with LiquidMetal, a patented metal alloy with an amorphous structure that also enables perfect bonding with the ceramic bezel, thereby accentuating its scratch-resistance. Finally, the presence of Superluminova on the key elements guarantees perfect readability when diving. The presence of a sapphire case-back on this diver’s watch is made possible by the use of a balance-spring made in silicon – a material endowed with anti-magnetic properties that enable the watch to dispense with the inner Faraday cage. This transparent back reveals the 18-carat gold oscillating weight clad in NAC (a platinum alloy) and featuring a sculpted Blancpain logo.

 

Both models are fitted with a NATO fabric or sail canvas strap – two extremely sturdy materials ideally suited to aquatic use. The steel version also comes on a metal bracelet – a brand new one.

 

Last but not least I would like to mention the water-resistant chronograph pushers which can be used also underwater to depths of 300 meters without any risk of damaging the watch. It makes a lot of sense if we talk about sports/diving watches, but is not common – even today. Bravo!




Ref. 5200-0130-NAB A



Ref. 5200-0130-NAB A

 

Some live pictures and impressions :

























The black version looks tempting (especially in detail) and to have such a version on offer seems to be almost a must for current tastes. On the wrist it feels and looks good. The touch & feel of the case in general, the pushers in specific and not to forget the appropriate crown are very nice. Still it is not my favorite, but that is probably only me.





Ref. 5200-1110-B52 A


Some details and live impressions :





























The satin-brushed steel version especially on the NATO would be my first choice. Steel - to me it fits just better to the spirit of the Bathyscaphe, which is not modern or even futuristic in style and more on the classical side. The satin-brushed steel also shows very nice details and even when the touch & feel is somehow less “sexy” – compared to ceramic – it still gets my vote.


The movement :







Not many is written or was told about the movement in the official press kit or at my presentation. Nonetheless it is a brand new (Yes, from the ground up!) 13-lignes in-house movement beating at a rate of 36,000 vibrations/hour (5 hertz). It is equipped with a column-wheel chronograph mechanism, a vertical clutch and a free sprung balance with silicon spring to remove any need for an anti-magnetic Faraday cage. It also offers a flyback function enabling the wearer to reset and instantly restart the chronograph simply by pressing the pusher at 4 o’clock. This device proves extremely useful in taking fast measurements of successive times. The power reserve is 50 hours.

 

To me it looks very solid and absolutely up-to-date when I look at the diameter (31.80mm), the highly sophisticated still sporty finish and the features shown. When looking at some of the wheels modern sports cars design (or shall I say “Lamborghini style”) comes to my mind. We already saw those details with other Blancpain watches before (not only sports watches – not at all), but this time it fits very well and is even nicer. I am very pleased with what I see and would love to do a “field test” - immediately smile

 

Sidenote :

 

I already mentioned a new bracelet for the Bathyscaphe´s, but didn´t show it so far.

 

Here we go, together with the “simple” Bathyscaphe:













First impression: I don´t like it that much – for several reasons. It looks kind of odd to me, even when it seems to be an evolution of one of their earlier bracelets for the Villeret collection.





(Ref. 1180; from mid 80s/90s)







The new one feels solid but less refined/sophisticated than what we have seen before from Blancpain (especially when we talk about the legendary X-71) and on top it will cost you a small fortune. The latter should be challenging to explain to customers who for example bought the “simple” Bathyscaphe. It is almost a third of the price …

 

Oddity is a question of taste and maybe I am wrong here, still there is the price compared to the price range of the Bathyscaphe watches.

 

 

Conclusion :

 

The questions I had in mind have been like: “Will I like it or not?” “What happens to the bracelets?” “Why do we see that new movement in this watch?” “Is this caliber really new and if so is it an appropriate successor of the cal. 1185?” …

 

You already know that I like the watch in general and which one is my favorite out of this two. The new movement is the cream on top and almost more important to me. Why? I was waiting for that movement quite long and even hopped to see it in the first Fifty Fathoms collection back in 2007, or no chronograph´s on offer with a fitting movement instead. Later I thought we would see it in the L`Evolution collection, as a watch with reference to their extensive car racing activities. Now it was introduced in a silent way as a member of the Fifty Fathoms collection but inside the more affordable Bathyscaphe version. The latter is probably because of the current market situation in general – very heavy price tags in the whole industry. It doesn´t hurt if you can offer a great watch with superb movement for a “reasonable” price. Cased in the “real” Fifty Fathoms it would have been much more expensive and I didn´t even mention the prices to expect from other brands with such a nice movement on offer. So I think we have two winner´s for Blancpain – the watch and the movement.

 

I could imagine seeing a novelty dedicated to car racing, next year. Personally I would love to see a “regatta” version of the chronograph dedicated to sailing competitions, but that´s probably only because of me and my son´s current favorite activities – heirloom, you know smile

 

Oliver






This message has been edited by small-luxury-world on 2014-04-30 04:52:12


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Comments: view entire thread

 

Great review; I too prefer ss and sunray grey dial...

 
 By: aardvarkbark : April 30th, 2014-21:53
But I do think it's priced too high for what it is.

Thanks a lot for your reply ...

 
 By: small-luxury-world : May 1st, 2014-04:26
but if I may ask a question. You think it is too expensive compared to something else, or do you think the prices are too high in general - in the industry? Cheers, Oliver

Great movement, very nice watch

 
 By: passetemps : May 4th, 2014-14:11
And i like the new bracelet very much. The Blancpain prices are also fair IMO. My problem with the FF (and i have owned four) is that it is too big. I had hopes, with the launch of the new Bathyscaphe, that they would offer a 40mm diver, the same size as ... 

I have had the privilege of trying the ceramic version of this watch

 
 By: passetemps : November 18th, 2014-02:07
at a boutique. CONS: - movement finishing a bit on the "spartan" side - pushers feel quite hard, not smooth at all, similar to the Valjoux/ETA chronos PROS: everything else! A perfect fusion of elegance, class and beauty with discretion, sturdiness and pr...