Ornatus-Mundi
[Zenith]
7136
The Villeret Collection
The Villeret Collection is something like the cradle for ‘BlancpainNEO’ and such the DNA of the brand distilled to the max. Blancpain without the collection would be unthinkable. No surprises therefore to see a lot of novelties here!
Villeret Calendrier Chinois Traditionnel:
This is believed to be a world’s first, the only Traditional Chinese Calendar ever realised in a wristwatch:
“On its fascinating dial, the hours, minutes and the Gregorian calendar rub shoulders with the main indications of the Chinese calendar: traditional double-hour indication, day, month with indication of leap months, signs of the zodiac, as well as the five elements and the 10 celestial stems. The combination of the latter with the 12 animals of the zodiac that represent the terrestrial branches follows the sixty-year cycle that is central to Chinese culture. The moon phases, a key element in Blancpain complete calendars, are also presented and play a particularly important role in this model, given the link between the lunar cycle and traditional Chinese months.
Contrary to the Gregorian solar calendar which uses the solar day as the base unit, the traditional Chinese calendar is a lunisolar calendar, meaning a solar calendar with the lunar cycle (29.53059 days) as its base unit. Since a year comprising 12 lunar months (354.36707 days) is approximately 11 days too short compared with the tropical or solar year (365.242374 days), a leap month is sometimes added to preserve the match with the cycle of the seasons. Given that each month of the Chinese calendar, including the leap months, begins on the day of the new moon, its length is either 29 or 30 days. This means that when a year comprises a leap month, this 13-month year will be longer than the tropical year. On the contrary, when there is no leap month, the year of 12 lunar months is shorter than the tropical year. This distinctive feature is the reason behind the variable date of the Chinese New Year.” [Press Kit]
The grand feu enamel dial features with a chapter ring composed of gold appliques ,and indications transferred before the firing process; the main hands shaped like slightly hollowed leaves; and the blued steel Gregorian date pointer appearing in the traditional serpentine form.
The watch is limited to 20 pieces in white gold and unlimited in red gold.
The movement is characterised by complexity and power:
“The new self-winding Calibre 3638 powering this watch is endowed with a 7-day power reserve, despite the presence of 434 parts including 39 jewels. Its complexity stems as much from the number of indications to be displayed as from the irregular nature of their cycles.” [Press Kit]
Note also the 5 correctors under the lug, a very practical and unique Blancpain development (the rotor is not the final version and will be replaced by a white gold one engraved with a dragon (what else?)):
Despite all this complexity, this 45mm masterpiece wears unobtrusive and very pleasant:
Villeret Répétition Minutes:
Blancpain is one of the pioneers of modern-day repetition watches and was one of the first to present a post-watch-crisis repeating movement. This year we saw a new entry to this elite circle:
We have a video that demonstrates its sound qualities (note that this is a prototype still!):
Its movement is exceptional for sure, but it was also the dial that merits attention. Note the regular centrifugal pattern:
Worn on the wrist it’s a restrained and elegant stunner, a true understatement watch:
Here, the dial might fool you in thinking its made of papyrus:
This transposition effect is something this watch has in common with another 2012 novelty:
Villeret Squelette 8 Jours:
From time to time Blancpain presented skeletonised watches that allowed deep insights into their respective driving powers. This year’s offering is no exception an a beautiful representative of this genre:
As you certainly have noticed, this 38mm watch is built around the 8-day handwound movement Cal. 13. The neat effect here is that all three mainspring barrels are open-worked and visible, allowing the wearer to observe the distribution (and equalisation) of power between the three reservoirs.
The decoration itself is composed of skeleton-working, chamfering (also known as bevelling) and engraving. For our liking it’s a bit too much but nevertheless nicely done. We particularly like for deep the movement has been freed from metal:
As much as this watch is stunning to behold, its true magic is exposed once you wear it on your wrist:
It appears like a miniature universe with numerous mountains, valleys and rivers:
Villeret Flinqué:
Announced as a ‘Pre-Basel’ model this is actually a watch we missed. Thus, only press pictures:
The dial is covered with several layers of translucent blue lacquer applied to the dial create an incomparable depth effect:
Villeret Handwound Ultra-Flat:
The final five (!) watches all contain movements derived from the venerable Piguet Cal. 15. The movement has been sleeping in Blancpain’s stable for two decades until it finally was taken from rest 5 years ago:
Originally developed in 1976 by Jacques Piguet himself, it was released two years later. It is remarkable with its generous diameter (33.8mm) but a thickness of only 1.9mm. Combined with its splendid space between the bridges there is significant space for decoration; and Blancpain at times made good use of it (e.g. the 2007 Only Watch below; & more later!).
We shall start with two ‘Dragon’ watches sporting the unmodified Cal. 155 that well fills the case:
Of course, like so many others, paying reference to the new Chinese year of the dragon. The first features a 3D dragon…
… while the second sports a rural Chinese motif:
The sculpturing/engraving work is quite elaborate and articulates the scenery well:
Staying with the same movement but turning it upside down – literally and metaphorically!
The former aspect is because the movement in the following (and last) watches is turned by 180° to expose in lieu of the dial. The latter is because Blancpain transformed an ultra-flat movement into a considerably thick one – for a good reason, as we shall see!
Below you find on the left the Cal. 155 as in the watch above and on the right the one discussed now. Note how the bridges increased in thickness, they are almost like dams trying to tame an ocean!
The watches in question do not feature the usual Geneva striping but instead make different usage of the real estate on the top and the sides of the bridges. The top parts are coloured or set in stone, whereas the sidewalls are perfectly polished and/or set with stones as well.
What is easily noticed is how splendidly the magic of light flowing along the bridges’ flanks is worked out (pay attention to the balance cock!):
While we are at it, we start with the black coloured watch:
Slightly less dramatic is the white coloured version:
The final version is set in stones…
… except for the central bridge carrying the hands:
More posts:
Baselword 2012 - Official PuristSPro Report: Blancpain
We can’t deny that this manufacture always was dear to us. Both of us follow the developments in Le Brassus closely and with much of our hearts & souls involved. In the early days of Blancpain (“second life”) there was a simple but unique case, only. They...
The X Fathoms Collection
The X Fathoms was already introduced in autumn 2011, in Dubai ( click here ) and we already had some discussions here about it. Nonetheless we would like to talk about it once more, because most of the time it is nearly impossible to get the full picture ...
For sure, this version has caused some strong reactions.
Love / Hate / perplexity / surprise. It is a strong watch, certainly not a consensual one. It is a technical watch, which was not the case with the first models, I mean the original, which housed rugged movements, reliable tractors, and where finishing wa...
The 50 Fathoms Collection
The design of the Fifty Fathoms collection is well-known as it is available since 2007. We have seen several versions in different metals, in several colours, with additional logo´s and with different complications. (The variants which are available are n...
They should give us one version without date, at Blancpain.
But wait a minute... Next year will be 2013.... 60th Birthday of this great watch... Hmmmmm.... Blancpain may wwell have something in the tube, for the Hard Core Fans we are... Best, Nicolas.
No ...
they are not discontinued, it is just a wider collection with additional models.
The L-Evolution Collection
This recent addition to the brands portfolio is the prime reason why many think Blancpain has deviated from its identity while others applaud the fresh wind blowing. The former sentiment has been helped by a slightly awkward introduction (remember, the...
The Villeret Collection
The Villeret Collection is something like the cradle for ‘BlancpainNEO’ and such the DNA of the brand distilled to the max. Blancpain without the collection would be unthinkable. No surprises therefore to see a lot of novelties here! Villeret Calendrier C...
One to hear, one to look at.
The Minute repeater... I was not convinced at all by the former ones, I will have to listen to the new one. It is always great to listen to a Minute Repeater. How will it sound? Is it noisy? Rich? Loud enough? One to look at... The 8 Days Skeleton, one I ...
Minute Repeater ...
the one we listened to was disappointing, to be honest. Hopefully it was a prototype. Thanks, Nicholas! Oliver
The ones I listened in the past ...
have been nice, but not too loud. This one was "strange", somehow.
Blancpain ultra plate
Thanks for your thorough report guys! Can you tell me more about the new Villeret Ultra-flat, the one with the thick bridges where the mvement is 'turned upside down' that comes in black or white. Does the watch come in WG or in SS (I assume SS, looking a...
I guess you are asking about ...
Ref. 6616- 15 27 (white ceramics) and 6616- 15 30 (black ceramics). As you can see from the "15", both are available (only) in WG. Oliver
Our Conclusion!
For the last few years we were concerned about the direction of Blancpain, it seemed to lack focus and appeared as a result of a lot of trial & error in search for answers to a changing market. With this year’s novelties we have the impression that Blancp...
Excellent summary report.....
Love the X Fathoms, but even with a 40th birthday this year - this won't be the special purchase for myself. Perhaps I could delay a little, as Nicolas says, incase they bring out something 'true' to the vintage FF a lot of us love. Also, I like very much...
Thank you,
Been eagerly waiting for this report. Comprehensive and quite informative as always. Thanks guys.
